When the temperatures drop and layers become essential, few garments step up with as much character and durability as a tweed suit. Rugged yet refined, tweed has been worn for centuries. From Irish countryside estates to modern city streets, a tweed suit remains a staple for men who want substance and style woven into every thread.
If you're considering adding a tweed suit to your wardrobe this season, this guide breaks down everything you need to know from Christian Boehm, head designer and lead custom clothier at Bespoke by CB.
What Is Tweed?
Tweed is a woolen fabric known for its thickness, warmth, and distinctive texture. Traditionally woven on a twill loom, tweed often features subtle diagonal lines, flecks, or patterns created by mixing different colors of yarn.
Some of the most iconic tweeds include:
Herringbone
A V-shaped weaving pattern resembling the bones of a fish. Strong, directional, and effortlessly classic. Perfect for winter jackets and suits.
Glen Plaid
A mixture of checks and windowpanes often found in British tailoring. Glen plaid tweed is heavier and ideal for cooler climates or outdoor formalities.
Donegal
Originating from Ireland, Donegal tweed is instantly recognized by its colorful flecks, blue, red, green, or gold, scattered throughout the fabric. Lightweight versions make it suitable even for spring.
Saxony & Shetland Tweed
Softer, smoother tweeds often used for sport coats or lighter suits. These have a more relaxed hand feel but maintain the structure tweed is known for.
What Makes High-Quality Tweed?
Not all tweed is created equal. When evaluating a tweed garment, pay special attention to:
1. The Weave
High-quality tweed has a consistent, tight weave with no loose threads, gaps, or fraying edges. The structure should feel firm but not overly stiff.
2. The Weight
Richer tweeds tend to be heavier due to denser yarns. This weight improves drape, insulation, and longevity.
3. The Texture
Luxury tweed feels substantial, soft enough to wear comfortably, but textured enough to be unmistakably authentic. Intricate patterns, depth of color, and natural flecks indicate higher craftsmanship.
4. The Wool Quality
Premium tweeds are woven from pure wool or wool blends sourced from reputable mills in Scotland, Ireland, and England. Look for names like Harris Tweed, Lovat Mill, or Magee.
Caring For Your Tweed Suit
Tweed is durable, but proper care preserves its shape and keeps it looking sharp for decades.
- Avoid Direct Sunlight: Hanging your jacket in bright light can cause fading or dryness in the wool over time.
- Steam, Don't Iron: After each wear, lightly steaming your tweed maintains its structure and removes surface wrinkles without damaging the fibers.
- Use Proper Hangers: Wide wooden or padded hangers maintain the shoulder shape and prevent creasing.
- Allow Airflow: Store your tweed in a breathable garment bag or with paper layers between pieces—not plastic—to prevent odor or moisture buildup.
- Brush Regularly: A natural-bristle brush removes surface lint, dust, or outdoor debris and keeps fibers clean.
Can a Tweed Suit Be Tailored?
Yes, tweed can absolutely be tailored, but it requires a skilled hand.
Because tweed is thicker and more textured than standard suiting fabrics, alterations must be done with precision. A professional tailor will use specialized needles, controlled heat, and careful pressing techniques to avoid fraying or distorting the weave.
A well-trained tailor can:
- Taper the waist
- Adjust sleeve and trouser length
- Shape the chest or shoulder
- Refine the leg or seat of the trousers
A custom made tweed suit gives you the full advantage, precision shaping without compromise fitted just for you.
How to Style a Tweed Suit
Tweed offers a blend of sophistication and texture that transitions easily from casual elegance to polished formality.
1. With a Turtleneck
A slim turtleneck sweater in black, charcoal, or cream instantly modernizes a tweed suit. Clean, warm, and European.
2. With a Dress Shirt & Tie
For a professional environment, pair a dark tweed with:
- A crisp white or light blue shirt
- A textured tie (wool, cashmere, or knit)
- Polished brown or black dress shoes
3. With a Chunky Knit
A merino or cashmere crewneck layered under your tweed jacket offers a refined yet rugged look perfect for weekend outings.
4. With Boots
Tweed pairs exceptionally well with Chelsea boots, brogues, or lace-up boots, especially in earthy tone leathers.
Where To Buy a High-Quality Tweed Suit
For those looking to invest in a tweed suit crafted specifically to their measurements, Bespoke by CB offers hand-selected luxury tweeds from the world's finest mills.
With precision tailoring, high-touch service, and garments designed around your exact body profile, you get a tweed suit that not only fits your lifestyle, but elevates it.
Whether you prefer a rugged sport coat, a refined herringbone three-piece, or a contemporary glen plaid ensemble, your tweed suit can be created precisely the way you envision.
Book your appointment today with us no matter where you are located.
