Black tie is one of the most misunderstood dress codes in menswear. Many men think it simply means a black suit and a bow tie. In reality black tie is a precise tradition rooted in proportion craftsmanship and restraint. When done correctly it looks effortless powerful and timeless. When done poorly it looks like a costume.
At Bespoke by CB we design black tie garments from the ground up. Every detail matters because black tie is not about trends. It is about quiet authority and impeccable fit.
What black tie actually means
True black tie refers to evening formalwear. It has rules for a reason. These rules create harmony and balance across the entire outfit. A proper black tie look starts with the jacket and everything else follows.
This is where bespoke matters. Black tie exposes shortcuts instantly. Off the rack tuxedos often look stiff boxy or shiny in the wrong way. A bespoke garment is engineered to move cleanly with your body and photograph beautifully under evening light.
The jacket fabric and finish
The foundation of a great black tie look is the jacket cloth. You want a deep matte wool with subtle richness not shine. Super fine worsted wool or a wool mohair blend is ideal. Midnight navy is often more elegant than black under evening lighting and photographs better in formal settings.
At Bespoke by CB we help clients choose fabrics that hold structure without feeling rigid. The goal is clean lines sharp lapels and a jacket that feels light despite its formality.
Lapels are not a detail they are the statement
The lapel defines the tuxedo. Peak lapels and shawl lapels are the only correct options for black tie. Notch lapels belong on business suits.
The facing should be silk satin or grosgrain depending on your style and body type. Grosgrain is understated and refined. Satin is classic and dramatic. The lapel width must be proportioned to your chest and shoulder structure which is impossible to do correctly without custom tailoring.
This is one of the most obvious differences between bespoke and off the rack.
The shirt should be quiet and perfect
A black tie shirt should never compete with the jacket. It should be clean crisp and intentional.
Look for a proper tuxedo shirt with a structured collar designed for a bow tie. A bib front can be pleated or pique depending on formality. Buttons should be studs or covered buttons not standard plastic dress shirt buttons.
At Bespoke by CB every black tie shirt is made specifically for the jacket it will be worn with. Collar height bow tie spread and cuff length are all engineered together so nothing feels improvised.
The bow tie must be self tied
This is non negotiable. A pre tied bow tie instantly flattens the entire look.
A proper bow tie has slight asymmetry character and depth. It should sit naturally against the collar without gaps or tension. The fabric should match the lapel facing in tone and texture.
We design bow ties alongside the tuxedo so proportions remain consistent from chest to face.
Trousers and the importance of line
Black tie trousers should be clean and uninterrupted. No belt loops. No cuffs. A single satin or grosgrain stripe down the side is traditional and elongates the leg.
Fit matters more here than anywhere else. The rise must be correct the break minimal and the waist comfortable without relying on a belt. Side adjusters or braces are the proper solution and are standard in bespoke black tie trousers.
Shoes finish the statement
Patent leather is classic but not mandatory. A highly polished calfskin oxford or opera pump is equally appropriate when done correctly.
What matters most is refinement. Heavy soles square toes or casual construction will break the formality instantly. Shoes should feel like part of the outfit not an afterthought.
Why bespoke makes the difference
Black tie is unforgiving. There is nowhere to hide. Fit proportion and balance are everything.
At Bespoke by CB we do not adapt black tie garments from suit patterns. We build them specifically for evening wear. From lapel roll to button stance to sleeve pitch every detail is intentional.
When you wear bespoke black tie you do not look overdressed. You look correct.
Whether you are attending a gala wedding awards dinner or formal evening event our role is to make sure your presence matches the room without trying to steal it.
Black tie done right is quiet confidence. That is what we specialize in.
If you are ready to invest in a black tie garment that will last decades and never look dated we invite you to experience the Bespoke by CB process.
