From the looks of it, how old would you say the shoes in the picture are above? 2 years? 5 years? Well, how about 22? It is true; the shoes in this picture are 20+ years old and still look just as good as the first time they were worn.
How can you capitalize on your investment and make a good pair of shoes look great and last for over 20 years?
HERE ARE SOME TIPS FROM OUR INDUSTRY INSIDERS FOR YOU ON HOW TO MAKE YOUR SHOES LAST:
TIP 1: BUY A QUALITY, WELL-MADE SHOE TO START WITH.
A good quality dress shoe will have a 360-degree Goodyear welt construction without a steel shank in the sole. The Goodyear welt is what sews the upper, footbed, and sole together. This type of construction is typically found on higher-priced shoes, but overall it is superior to a glued construction.
As long as you take care of the leather uppers on your shoes, this will allow you to re-sole the shoes many times as needed and promote the longevity of your pair.
When buying a new pair of shoes, look for the omission of a steel shank. The omission of the steel shank is what will provide flexibility and comfort for you. Some examples of well-made shoes with a Goodyear Welt construction would be Scarpe DiBianco (sold at Christian Boehm), Allen Edmonds, Churches, or Santoni.
TIP 2: GO FROM DRAB TO FAB BY CONDITIONING AND POLISHING YOUR SHOES REGULARLY
We recommend conditioning your shoes at least three times a year, followed by polishing after the conditioner. In addition to a full-on polish, we recommend lightly polishing your shoes after a minimum of three wearings.
Shoe polish is mostly made from carnauba wax, which keeps the leather of your shoes soft and supple. Conditioning three times a year and regularly polishing after three wearings nourishes the leather of your shoes, so they stand the test of time.
See video on a step by step guide to polishing and conditioning your shoes: https://youtu.be/lnfFM_rPb4s
TIP 3: EDGE YOUR DRESS SHOES WITH BLACK OR BROWN DYE.
This will keep the edges of the soles looking showroom new and fresh. Edge dressing is a small detail that makes a big difference in the overall appearance of your shoes. When the sole edges start to look worn and faded, a simple application of edge dye restores that crisp, finished look.
Apply edge dye carefully along the sole edge using a small brush or applicator. Allow it to dry completely before wearing. This quick maintenance step takes less than five minutes but keeps your shoes looking professionally maintained.
TIP 4: BUY A PAIR OF FULL CEDAR SHOE TREES TO KEEP IN YOUR SHOES WHILE NOT IN USE.
Cedarwood naturally draws moisture away from the shoe, helps prevent foot odor, and keeps the shoes original shape. Shoe trees are perhaps the single most important investment you can make after the shoes themselves. Insert them immediately after each wearing while the leather is still warm and slightly moist from your feet.
The cedar absorbs moisture overnight, preventing the leather from cracking and extending the life of the shoe dramatically. Over time, the cedar may lose its scent. Simply sand the surface lightly with fine-grit sandpaper to refresh the aroma and moisture-absorbing properties.
TIP 5: MAINTAIN A PROPER ROTATION OF SHOES IN YOUR WARDROBE.
By rotating out which shoes you wear on a daily basis, this will allow your shoes to rest and bounce back into shape between wearings. If you are wearing tailored clothing regularly, we recommend at least six pairs of dress shoes.
A solid rotation would consist of a black, dark brown and medium lace-up dress shoe for suits and the same colors in a loafer for sport coats and dress pants.
This rotation will provide many years of use and allow you to capitalize on your footwear investment.
TIP 6: USE SHOE HORNS AND PROPER INSERTION TECHNIQUES
One of the most common ways shoes get damaged is through improper insertion of the foot. Crushing the heel counter by forcing your foot in without a shoe horn damages the structural integrity of the shoe permanently. A quality shoe horn costs very little but saves you hundreds in premature wear and repairs.
Always use a shoe horn when putting on your dress shoes. This protects the heel counter and maintains the shape of the shoe back. Long-handled shoe horns are ideal for dress shoes as they allow you to slip in smoothly without bending down excessively.
TIP 7: PROTECT YOUR SHOES FROM THE ELEMENTS
Leather is a natural material that requires protection from excessive moisture, salt, and sun. In Miami's climate, afternoon showers are common, and salt from both ocean air and sidewalk treatments can degrade leather over time.
Apply a quality water and stain repellent spray to your shoes when they are new, and reapply every few months. If your shoes do get caught in the rain, never dry them with direct heat. Instead, stuff them with newspaper and let them air dry naturally with shoe trees inserted once they are nearly dry.
Salt stains appear as white marks on leather. Remove them promptly with a mixture of equal parts white vinegar and water, applied gently with a soft cloth. Once the salt is removed, condition the leather to restore its natural oils.
TIP 8: PROFESSIONAL MAINTENANCE AND RE-SOLING
Even with impeccable care, your shoes will eventually need professional attention. A skilled cobbler can re-sole Goodyear welted shoes multiple times, effectively giving them a second life. We recommend having your shoes evaluated by a professional every 18 to 24 months, depending on wear frequency.
Signs that your shoes need professional attention include worn-down heels, smooth spots on the sole where the tread has disappeared, and any separation between the sole and the upper. Addressing these issues early prevents more extensive and expensive damage.
BUILDING A SHOE WARDROBE IN MIAMI
For men building a tailored wardrobe in Miami, shoe selection should account for both style and climate. The warm, humid weather means breathability is essential. Look for unlined or partially lined shoes in lighter constructions. Suede is an excellent option for Miami as it breathes well and adds textural interest to your outfits.
A well-rounded Miami shoe wardrobe might include: a pair of dark brown oxfords for business, a pair of burgundy loafers for smart casual occasions, a pair of tan suede brogues for daytime events, and a pair of black dress shoes for formal occasions. This collection covers the full spectrum of dress codes while allowing proper rotation between wearings.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT SHOE CARE
How often should I condition my dress shoes?
We recommend conditioning your shoes at least three times per year. If you live in a dry climate or wear the shoes frequently, you may need to condition more often. Always condition before polishing, and allow the conditioner to absorb fully before applying any wax or cream polish.
Can I polish suede shoes?
Suede requires different care than smooth leather. Never use traditional wax polish on suede. Instead, use a dedicated suede brush to remove dirt and restore the nap. For stubborn marks, a suede eraser works well. Protect suede with a specialized suede protector spray and avoid wearing suede in heavy rain.
How long should a quality pair of dress shoes last?
With proper care, rotation, and periodic re-soling, a high-quality Goodyear welted dress shoe can last 20 years or more. The key is consistent maintenance and addressing issues promptly before they become major problems.
