When you run your hand across a perfectly tailored suit and feel that buttery softness, that subtle sheen, that drape that seems to fall exactly right, you are feeling the work of a fabric mill. And if that suit happens to be made from Drago wool, you are feeling the output of one of the finest fabric mills in all of Italy. Bespoke By CB proudly carries Drago fabrics for our custom suits, and in this guide, we want to take you inside the mill to understand why this cloth is so special.
The Story of Drago: A Biella Original
Everything began in 1973 when Umberto and Laura Drago founded a spinning company in Lessona, a small town in the Biella textile district of Piedmont, Italy. What started as a specialized spinning operation quickly became a reference point for the major wool mills throughout the Biella region. The Drago family earned a significant share of the market and established themselves as leaders in their field.
By 1980, the company had developed an efficient international sales network that spanned the globe. In 1993, a pivotal moment arrived when the Drago family acquired Lanificio Fintes, expanding their structure and giving life to a new fabrics division. This was the move that transformed Drago from a spinning specialist into a fully integrated wool mill. In 2001, Lanificio Fintes was officially incorporated within the Drago Group, cementing the company as both a yarn producer and fabric creator.
The second generation, Paolo and Daniela Drago, brought targeted studies and innovative ideas that strongly contributed to the expansion of the group. Their vision combined respect for Italian textile tradition with modern technology and innovation. Today, Drago produces more than 1.7 million meters of high-quality fabric per collection and exports to brands and bespoke tailors worldwide, with particularly strong presence in Japan, South Korea, and the United States.
What makes this remarkable is that Drago achieved this level of prestige in a region filled with centuries-old weaving houses. In a country where some mills date back to the 1700s, Drago is a relative newcomer. Yet in just over 50 years, they have established themselves as one of Biella's modern hallmark mills, competing alongside weaving icons that have been refining their craft for generations.
Biella: The Heart of Italian Textile Production
To understand Drago, you first need to understand Biella. The production and processing of yarns and fabrics in the Biella region has ancient origins that can be traced back to pre-Roman times. The reasons for this are rooted in the natural environment.
Biella sits in the foothills of the Alps in northwest Italy, in the Piedmont region. The area is traversed by numerous fresh alpine streams flowing down from the mountains. The local soil has poor fertility, which might seem like a disadvantage, but it means the water has very low levels of silt and natural minerals that could interfere with textile processing. These mountain streams provide economical energy sources, and the exceptional quality of the water contributes directly to the softness, shine, and hand feel of the textiles produced.
As Amedeo Beretta, Sales Area Manager at the Drago mill, explains: a couple of hundred years ago, mills were always going higher and higher up the mountains to get the cleanest water. The highest mill got the clean water, and the next mill down got the water that had already been used to wash fabric. This competition for clean water was literally an uphill battle.
By the 13th and 15th centuries, the statutes of Biella already referenced woolworkers' and weavers' guilds. Between 1500 and 1600, different valleys specialized: the Elvo Valley produced fine cloths, while the Strona and Sessera valleys focused on raw and ordinary cloths. In 1816, Pietro Sella imported the first mechanical looms from England and installed them in the Valle di Mosso area, helping create the organized business model from which the modern local textile industry evolved.
This integrated production structure, from the treatment of greasy fibers to the finished garment, is still maintained today and uniquely differentiates the Biella district from the rest of Europe. It is in this rich textile ecosystem that Drago was born and continues to thrive.
From Raw Fiber to Finished Cloth: The Drago Process
Drago is a fully integrated woolen mill. This means they control every step of production internally, from the careful selection of raw materials through to the finished fabric. The process is approximately 90 days from start to finish and begins thousands of miles from Italy.
Raw Material Selection
Everything starts with sourcing the finest raw wools from Australia and New Zealand. Drago's buyers select merino wool from specific sheep farms where altitude, pastures, native grasses, and how livestock is tended all factor into the decision. As Enrico from Drago explains: without a beautiful raw ingredient, the rest does not matter. And when you find the right Australian wool, you buy lots of it.
Each batch of wool that arrives at the mill is lab-tested to guarantee it meets Drago's strict quality parameters. The focus is on the regularity of crimp (the natural bends in a wool fiber), softness, and fineness. Quality raw material should feel squeaky-soft in the hand, almost rubbery, spongy, and absorbent. Drago buys wool not when they need it, but when they like it, and that is a huge difference.
Spinning and Yarn Preparation
After the washed wool arrives at the mill, it goes through ten to twelve stages of combing the fibers to obtain the yarn. The spinning department is equipped with latest-generation machines and a modern laboratory for real-time quality controls on fibers and yarns. Different Australian merino wools from different farms and years are blended, much like a winemaker blends grapes, to combine their unique properties: softness and feel, but also enough structure and muscle for a durable fabric.
Weaving
Once the yarn is ready, it is prepared for the loom. The weaving department features modern frames capable of producing extra-fine fabrics. Thousands of warp threads are set up, passing through metal heddles in a precise arrangement that determines the weave pattern. The yarn is dyed before weaving, allowing for precise color control and the rich, deep shades that Italian fabrics are known for.
Finishing
After weaving, the fabric still feels coarse. As Beretta describes it, at this stage the cloth is a body without a soul. The finishing department, located in Verrone, gives the fabric its soul. Enormous machines ensure clean water surges through the fibers to heat, wash, and process the cloth. This is the nobilitation, as Beretta calls it, the process that transforms rough woven cloth into the luxurious fabric that tailors and clients covet.
The finishing process is where Biella's water quality matters most. The naturally soft, mineral-free alpine water contributes to the distinctive hand feel and luster of the finished fabric. Modern technology has replaced the need to be at the top of the mountain, but the water quality remains essential.
The Art of Mending: Burling and Quality Control
One of the most remarkable aspects of Drago's production is the human element in quality control. After the fabric is woven, skilled workers known as rammendatrici, or menders, inspect the wool for imperfections. This is a painstaking process performed entirely by eye, using magnifying lenses and tweezers to identify and correct any flaws in the woven cloth.
This process, also called burling, involves carefully removing stray fibers, correcting misaligned threads, and fixing any small defects that the loom may have produced. It requires years of experience and an eye for detail that machines cannot replicate. To become a quality checker at Drago, years of factory work and experience are required.
Despite the immense scale of the operation, not a single fabric gets packaged without at least three human quality checks. The quality team runs through hundreds of thousands of square meters of fabric each day, fixing any problems by hand, checking the visual properties of the cloth, and running complex technical checks to ensure it meets Drago's standards.
This commitment to human inspection is what separates a truly luxury fabric from a mass-produced one. It is the difference between a cloth that looks good and a cloth that is perfect. At Bespoke By CB, we see the results of this attention to detail in every garment we make from Drago fabric.
Drago's Signature Fabrics: The S Number Explained
Drago specializes in super fine wool, and understanding their range requires understanding the S number. Originally coined in England, where the worsted spinning process was invented, the S number is a classification metric that indicates the fineness of a wool fiber, measured by its maximum diameter in microns. The S stands for Super, denoting superior quality wool.
The higher the S number, the finer the wool:
- S130: Approximately 17.5 microns, roughly four times finer than a human hair. A robust fabric crafted for year-round suits that are made to get a workout. Stronger and more resistant to abrasion, perfect for daily wear without sacrificing soft hand feel and rich structure.
- S160: Approximately 15.5 microns. Ultra-fine wool that offers exceptional softness while maintaining enough durability for regular use. A versatile luxury fabric that drapes beautifully.
- S180: Approximately 14.5 microns. Incredibly soft wool with an unbelievably luxurious feel, lightweight construction, and understated luster. Drago uses a special brushing technique that brings out a subtle fuzz, adding to the fiber's natural softness. The result is an exquisite fabric that is finer than the best cashmere.
- S210: Approximately 13.25 microns. An extremely rare and delicate fabric reserved for the most exclusive suits. This represents the pinnacle of what Drago produces.
In addition to pure wool, Drago produces fabrics blending noble fibers like cashmere and linen. Their wool-linen blends offer a uniquely Italian combination of structure and breathability, perfect for warmer climates. With over 3,000 designs in each collection, the range of colors, shades, and tones speaks to Drago's mastery of color and pattern.
Sustainability and Heritage at Drago
Drago's approach to sustainability is rooted in their philosophy that exclusivity and quality create true environmental respect. The mill has been certified according to the Responsible Animal Fiber Standard (RAF), ensuring that the wool they source comes from farms that meet strict ethical and environmental criteria.
Drago operates with the conviction that conscious choices and measurable actions drive sustainable growth. Their environmental commitment extends across all phases of the production process, both internal and external. The mill's location in Biella, where the integrated production cycle minimizes transportation and waste, is itself a model of efficiency.
The heritage aspect of Italian mill production is equally important. Biella's textile district maintains an integrated production structure that is unique in Europe. Years of experience gained by master craftsmen ensure that products like wool, cashmere, alpaca, and mohair are developed to the highest quality. By supporting mills like Drago, Bespoke By CB helps preserve this centuries-old tradition of Italian textile excellence.
In 2025, Drago made headlines by winning the auction for the finest merino wool from South Africa, a bale measuring 14.1 microns. This continued a tradition established by founder Umberto Drago in 1991, demonstrating the mill's ongoing commitment to sourcing the absolute finest raw materials available anywhere in the world.
Why Bespoke By CB Carries Drago Fabric
At Bespoke By CB, we believe that a great custom suit begins with great fabric. You can have the most skilled tailor and the most precise measurements, but if the cloth is mediocre, the suit will be mediocre. This is why we are selective about the mills we work with, and it is why Drago is part of our fabric collection.
Drago represents everything we look for in a fabric partner. They are family-owned and operated, with a commitment to quality that spans generations. They control every step of production, from raw fiber to finished cloth, ensuring consistency and excellence. They combine respect for Italian textile tradition with modern innovation and technology. And they produce fabrics that look and feel exceptional when cut and sewn into a custom garment.
When a client chooses a Drago fabric for their custom suit at Bespoke By CB, they are choosing cloth that has been through a 90-day production process, lab-tested for quality, woven on state-of-the-art looms, hand-inspected by skilled menders, and finished with alpine water that has made Biella famous the world over. That is not just fabric. That is heritage, craftsmanship, and luxury woven together.
The super fine wool that Drago produces offers a wearing experience that ordinary suit fabrics simply cannot match. The drape is superior, the hand feel is softer, and under the sun, the fabric has a subtle sheen. As Beretta describes it, there is a light inside the fabric. That light is what transforms a suit from clothing into an experience.
How Bespoke By CB Helps You Choose Drago Fabrics
Selecting the right fabric for a custom suit can feel overwhelming, especially when faced with the impressive range that Drago offers. That is where Bespoke By CB comes in. Our expertise extends beyond tailoring to include deep knowledge of the fabrics we carry, and we guide every client through the selection process to ensure they choose the cloth that best suits their needs, lifestyle, and aesthetic preferences.
When you visit Bespoke By CB for a custom suit consultation, we start by understanding how you plan to wear the garment. Is this a daily office suit that needs to withstand regular use? An S130 or S160 Drago wool might be ideal, offering durability without sacrificing elegance. Is this a special occasion suit where luxury and softness are paramount? An S180 or higher would deliver that extraordinary hand feel and lightweight drape.
We also consider climate and season. Drago's wool-linen blends are exceptional for summer and warm-weather destinations, while their flannel weights provide warmth and structure for cooler months. Color and pattern preferences are equally important. Drago's collection spans classic navy and charcoal to vibrant blues, subtle checks, and elegant herringbones, and we help you navigate these options to find the fabric that matches your personal style.
Every Drago fabric in our collection is presented in swatch form, allowing you to feel the cloth, see the color in natural light, and understand the weight and texture before making your decision. Bespoke By CB believes that choosing a fabric should be a tactile, personal experience, not a catalog selection. When you run your hand across a Drago swatch and feel that signature softness, you understand immediately why this fabric is worth the investment.
Frequently Asked Questions
Where is Drago fabric made?
Drago fabric is made in Biella, Italy, specifically in the towns of Lessona and Verrone in the Piedmont region. Biella is the historic heart of Italian textile production, known for its alpine water supply that is ideal for wool processing. Drago has been producing fabric there since 1973.
What makes Drago wool different from other Italian fabrics?
Drago stands out for its fully integrated production process, controlling everything from raw fiber selection to finished cloth. The mill specializes in super fine wool, starting at S130 and going up to S210, and hand-inspects every meter of fabric through a skilled mending process. Despite being younger than many Biella mills, Drago has established itself as a modern hallmark of Italian textile excellence.
What is the S number on Drago fabric?
The S number indicates the fineness of the wool fiber, measured in microns. Higher S numbers mean finer wool. Drago's fabrics range from S130 (approximately 17.5 microns, durable and versatile) to S210 (approximately 13.25 microns, extremely rare and luxurious). The S stands for Super, denoting superior quality wool.
Can I choose Drago fabric for my custom suit at Bespoke By CB?
Yes. Bespoke By CB carries a selection of Drago fabrics for our custom suits. During your consultation, we present Drago swatches and guide you through choosing the right weight, color, and S number for your needs. You can feel the fabric, see the colors in person, and make an informed decision with our expert guidance.
Is Drago fabric sustainable?
Drago is certified under the Responsible Animal Fiber Standard and operates with a philosophy that quality and exclusivity create environmental respect. The mill's integrated production cycle in Biella minimizes waste and transportation, and they source wool from farms that meet strict ethical and environmental criteria.
How should I care for a suit made from Drago fabric?
Drago wool suits should be dry cleaned sparingly and brushed regularly with a soft garment brush to remove dust and debris. Always hang the suit on a quality wooden hanger to maintain its shape, and allow it to rest between wears. With proper care, a Drago fabric suit from Bespoke By CB will last for many years.
What is burling in fabric production?
Burling is the hand-correction of imperfections in woven fabric. Skilled workers called rammendatrici use magnifying lenses and tweezers to identify and fix flaws such as stray fibers, misaligned threads, or small defects. At Drago, every meter of fabric goes through at least three human quality checks before it is shipped.
Experience Drago Fabric at Bespoke By CB
The story of Drago is the story of Italian textile excellence: family vision, regional heritage, raw material obsession, and human craftsmanship combined with modern technology. From the alpine streams of Biella to the skilled hands of menders who inspect every meter of cloth, Drago fabric represents the pinnacle of what a wool mill can produce.
At Bespoke By CB, we are proud to carry Drago fabrics because we believe our clients deserve cloth that is as considered and crafted as the tailoring we apply to it. When you choose a Drago fabric for your custom suit, you are choosing more than a material. You are choosing a tradition, a standard, and a level of quality that you will feel every time you put on the garment.
Ready to experience Drago fabric for yourself? Schedule a consultation with Bespoke By CB today. We will guide you through our Drago collection, help you select the perfect fabric for your custom suit, and craft a garment that honors the exceptional cloth from which it is made. Your suit deserves nothing less than the finest Italian wool, and we are here to help you wear it.
